Mike swims by holding the GoPro. Steven and I make the diver’s Okay sign, then they encourage me to swim closer to the statues to get a photo on my own.
My heart races as I take a deep breath and plunge to the bottom. Mike snaps a few pictures as I peer at the statues’ faces, smiling at the fish nibbling on their features. What an amazing idea, to use art to create new life in the ocean.
As I float to the surface for air, I hear the unmistakable mechanical whirring of an engine.
“Here they come.” Thomas grimaces. There are several boats heading our way from the nearby party island Gili Trawangan—some blasting music, all teeming with tourists glowing in their bright orange life jackets.
“Let’s go.” Steven grabs my hand again and we all take off for the boat.
“That was beautiful,” I say when I’ve pulled off my mask, shaking my hair out. “I can see why it’s so popular.”
“It’s a blessing and a curse,” Mike says, wiping his eyes. “It was a good idea, but it’s so busy that the reef can’t actually grow. Too many tourists kicking up sediment, too many poor swimmers being dragged down below by their friends and tour guides to take pictures.”
“That’s why we have our own reef projects.” I detect a hint of pride in Steven’s voice.
“Could I see those some time?” I ask.
He shares a look with Mike. “What about now? We don’t have any dives scheduled and the interns are basically done with their training. Soon they’ll be running the place.”
“We could never replace you.” Mason grins, punching Steven in the arm. “Though it would be a dream to work here full-time.”
“God yes, the sun, the quiet, the friendly people,” Thomas agrees.
“I think I would miss too many things,” Juliette says thoughtfully. “Like cheese. And good bread. The island does not have everything.” When she feels the eyes of everyone in thegroup, she throws up her hands. “But it is very nice! I love island life, but it could never be home for me.”
“I don’t have the complexion to live on an island year-round.” Victoria shrugs.
I laugh. “That’s fair. I keep trying to think of things that I miss from back home, but nothing really stands out. Maybe central AC…” I look out over the ocean, sparkling in the sun, and catch a glimpse of the mass of tourists floating off shore. “I definitely don’t miss driving everywhere. Or feeling like I’m never doing enough. Always running late. Falling behind. Not being productive enough…”
There’s a tense moment of silence and then they all erupt into laughter.
“I’m sorry, that’s just so American,” Victoria says.
“You definitely need more island time.” Mason nods. “It gets ingrained in us, but you really don’t have to live with the hustle and grind mindset. Since I started traveling, time moves differently. I’ve learned how to enjoy things more. Every time I go back home, I start to feel that silent daily stress creep back in, and I know I’m due for another trip.”
“You might be right,” I say, realizing how much more relaxed I’ve been since coming to Indonesia. Even with my life kind of falling apart, I’m enjoying it more than ever. Work doesn’t feel stressful here, it’s so intertwined with play. And things really do feel different on island time.
“You two go check out the reefs. We’ll be fine on our own,” Mike says.
Steven didn’t join the gentle teasing about my American mindset. I wonder what he thinks. Did he escape Australia forsimilar reasons? Or does he think I’m silly for pushing myself so hard?
Rather than putting him on the spot to answer now, I let him lead the way to another perfect day out on the water.
“Have you ever heard, ‘Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes’?” I ask.
“No,” he smiles. “What’s that mean?”
“It’s a Jimmy Buffet song. My dad loves him.” I sing a few lyrics and do a little dance. “I think it should be my mantra. Maybe island life really is changing me.” When I eventually get back to the US, it’s going to be with a whole new perspective. Grandma Frannie would be so proud.
The artificial reefs created by the Gili Telu Turtle Sanctuary are incredible. They don’t have the eerie, majestic quality of the statues, but they have grown much more wild and full of life because of it.
We see the small, intensely orange clownfish peeking out from between their soft-looking anemones. There are parrotfish in splashes of iridescent color, nibbling at corals. Even triggerfish. Steven points them out with finger guns and we’re careful to give them a wide berth so they won’t attack. After swimming with sharks, I’m not exactly afraid, but I still have a healthy respect for the animals protecting their homes.
And of course, there are turtles. We see seven this afternoon. Steven seems to have a sixth sense for them, making the now familiar motion with one hand stacked on top of the other, thumbs circling like flippers.
I love watching them swim gracefully, rising to the surface for a breath of fresh air before diving back down to the deep. Theyseem to glide through the water like they’re flying through space. I chase bubbles beside them, feeling light and graceful and alive.
Until suddenly, an intense burning erupts on my ankle. I whirl around, choking on a salty swallow through my snorkel as I search for the source. I reach for my foot, cradling it to my chest as I cough water from my throat and my skin crawls with fiery pain.
