Page 147 of We Are Just Us

“Yes,” Samantha breathed.

Kieran exhaled. Hadn’t realized he’d been holding his breath.

Rory paddled back out. Reset. Waited.

Ten minutes passed. A few more waves. The other surfer caught another one, decent but not spectacular. Rory let them pass, still waiting.

Kieran could see him out there. Patient. Focused. Waiting for the right one.

Then it came. A wave building on the horizon. Bigger than the others. Clean lines. Perfect shape.

Rory turned. Started paddling. Arms cutting through the water. Fast. Powerful.

He caught it. Popped up smooth. Board under his feet. Body low and centered.

He launched into an aerial. Board leaving the wave. Spinning. It was beautiful. Perfect.

The landing came down wrong. Hard. The board shot out from under him.

He went under.

Kieran waited for him to surface. Five seconds. Ten.

The wave rolled past, white water churning.

Where was he?

Fifteen seconds.

“Come on, Rory,” Kieran said. “Come on.”

Twenty seconds.

The other surfer was looking around. Confused. Looking for Rory.

Twenty-five seconds.

Kieran stood up. “Where is he?”

Samantha stood too, shielding her eyes.

Thirty seconds.

A whistle cut through the air.

Sharp. Urgent.

Kieran’s head snapped toward the sound.

Out on the water, something was wrong.

The other surfer was waving both hands above his head. Frantic. The universal signal for help.

The jet ski roared to life, cutting through the water toward him.

Kieran started moving without thinking. Samantha did the same.

“What’s happening?” Kieran asked.