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‘Well, it’s perfect. I’m proud to be one of your specials and to have a little piece of Firefly Forest to take home.’

*

‘Welcome to the final dinner. The end of your transformation programme. I hope you have enjoyed your time with us here at Firefly Forest,’ Tore said as Jonas and Greta handed out champagne flutes full of sparkling lemon and lime. ‘We have one final surprise for you all, if you’d like to bring your drinks outside and follow me.’

The sun had already set, and the air was cold and fresh as we marched single file behind Tore, past the thermal pools and into the forest. I hadn’t really dressed for an Arctic trek and my Chelsea boots had had just about as much as they could take out here, getting even more wrecked as we scrambled over wet leaves and muddy branches. A line of lemmings playing follow the leader, leader, leader, without question.

Eventually we arrived in a glade, where a circle of trees had been decorated with fairy lights and three glass igloos were glowing gold, cream and white in the dark. It could easily have been a proposal set-up or the backdrop for a romantic photo shoot – except it wasn’t. It was just us having dinner together. We were the occasion. Each igloo had a table inside set for dinner, with white tablecloths, gold cutlery and sheepskin covered chairs. The candles were already lit and welcoming and yellow forest flowers gave a pop of colour in silver vases. Pine cones and holly decorated the ceilings, and a mini wood burner crackled quietly in each corner.

‘Wow!’ Celeste said, skipping down to the first igloo. ‘Where have you been hiding all this?’

Ethel gave me a knowing smile – she’d seen it all before. ‘Fabulous, isn’t it?’ she whispered, not wanting to interrupt the awe-struck reverie of the group.

I walked down to the clearing, slowing my steps to take it all in. An enormous chiminea was blasting out heat in front of the igloos and a makeshift kitchen had been set up outside. The spicy smell of vegetable chilli being cooked over an open fire carried through the air. Huge paella pans of rice were being tended to by Jonas, in between flipping homemade pittas on the griddle. And then I spotted them. At first I thought it was the wind rustling the fairy lights in the trees. But it was too bright for that. Thousands of tiny lights flashing randomly, illuminating the forest. They weren’t fairy lights. They were fireflies.

‘Pretty cool, huh?’ Henrik appeared next to me, looking up into the trees.

‘Are they… real?’ I asked, getting as close as I could.

Henrik laughed. ‘Very good, eagle eyes. We use little lights in winter to give the effect while they hibernate. All solar of course.’

‘Still cool to see the light show.’

‘The trees are full of fireflies and glow worms in the summer – fascinating little creatures.’

‘I did wonder where the name had come from. I’d love to see them.’

‘Then you’ll have to come back,’ Henrik said with a wink. ‘We get a few different varieties here in Norway and each one lights up differently. They all have their very own flirtation dance.’

‘Is that why they do it?’

‘Not the only reason, but I suppose the light patterns are like languages. The same species can chat together: one flash for yes, two flashes for no.’

‘Seventeen flashes forthere’s a spider over there.’

Henrik laughed. ‘Exactly. And to attract the right mate. The men light up and the women reply if they’re interested.’

‘What if the woman is interested first?’

‘I don’t think the men are fussy. They put their lights on for everyone then see who replies.’

‘Sounds like Tinder.’ I laughed. ‘My mate Kat says men are like taxis. They put their lights on when they’re ready for a relationship. She has a nose for a single man.’

‘How do I put mine on?’ Henrik asked, suddenly serious.

I felt myself blush under his scrutiny and shrugged. ‘You’ll have to ask Kat.’

Tore banged a huge gong to get everyone’s attention. ‘Ladies and gentlemen, dinner is served. There is a table plan for this evening, so please find your place and take your seat.’

I poked my nose into the first igloo where Yuto and Kimi were in fits of laughter and there were two spare chairs. ‘Evening! Am I in here with you?’

‘These seats are for Jonas and Greta,’ Kimi said.

The middle igloo was being hosted by Tore and already had everybody seated, so I carried on walking up to igloo number three, where Celeste and Will were sat with Ethel and Henrik.

‘This must be me,’ I said, peering in.

‘Best seat in the house,’ Henrik said, patting the empty chair next to him.