“Devon’s good people. I surfed with him a bit in Hawaii.”
I nodded just as Tully started running his mouth.
“You’re a piece of shit, Summers. You think you’re so fucking badass, but you’re just a wannabe. Leave the surfing to the real professionals and go back to the East Coast. No one wants you here.”
I shot him a cool grin and shrugged.
“That’s not what Quinn said last night.” I smirked, and Riddick snarled at me.
“Don’t engage with him! Fucking focus!”
I chuckled, turning away from Tully, whose face was now a satisfying shade of purple.
As fun as it was to get Kyle all worked up, Riddick was right. I had a surf competition to win, and the next wave rolling in was a beauty.
“Later, toothtastic; my ride’s here.” I winked and paddled away, catching the Leviathan with just as much ease as I had the last one.
Riddick caught the wave with me, and I immediately knew this ride was going to be more challenging than the previous run.
The wave unexpectedly formed a second ripple, and I realized a few moments too late it was going to turn into a double-up.
“The barrel’s splitting! Hit the crest and catch the inner tube!” Riddick bellowed to my right, but I was already ten steps ahead of him.
My mind mapped out my route effortlessly, and I caught a floater over the first break so I could drop into the second barrel safely.
“Fuck yeah, baby!” Riddick praised me as I entered the greenroom of the inner tube. He was right behind me, cheering me on, and I had never felt so alive.
“They’re going to go nuts for that floater!” I yelled back to him as I prepared to execute another cutback so I could land back at the lineup.
I was setting up my pivot when suddenly, Tully dropped in front of me, fishtailing a carve that pulled the water away from my board.
Without the water to keep my board latched in, there was nothing I could do to recover.
“FINN!”
Riddick’s booming voice was the last thing I heard before I fell.
Eighty.
Feet.
Down.
Alexa Play: Only by RY X
If you’ve never wiped out before, there are no words I can use to describe how disorienting it can be.
There is no up or down.
There’s no air.
No shape or form.
It’s all sensation and sound, but even the sound has no discerning features.
It’s a relentless rush in your head that prevents you from getting your bearings.
The only thing you can see is the color of the ocean and flashes of foam that seem to rip right through you, tossing your body around like a rag doll.
