We’re finally coming in for our landing in Bonaire. Nolan leans into me so we can both look out the window at the gorgeous scenery below. Crystal clear water and beautiful green foliage cover the ground as far as we can see. Bonaire’s airport is named Flamingo International, so I’m hoping to spot some of those gorgeous pink birds while we’re here.
I can hardly wait to deplane and get our bags. I’m surprised to learn we’ll exit directly onto the tarmac. Since the weather is almost always warm and it doesn’t rain very often, there’s no need for a jetway. When it’s our turn to disembark, Nolan helps me down the rollaway steps, and holds my hand as we enter the airport waiting area. There’s a distinct Caribbean vibe in the facility and a large sign overhead displays the termBon Bini, meaning welcome.
We make our way through baggage claim and customs with minimal delays and exit the secure area. As this is one of several daily flights from the States, it’s pretty crowded in the passenger pick-up area. Sandy told us to look for the caretaker, Mr. Janssen, who will be picking us up at the airport. I scan the area and see an older gentleman holding a sign with my name on it. I point him out to Nolan, and he follows me with our bags as I approach the man.
“Hello. I’m Sally, and this is Nolan.”
“Bon Bini na Bonaire! Welcome to Bonaire, Miss Sally, Mr. Nolan. I am Levi, at your service.”
Nolan and I extend our hands and Levi shakes both in turn.
“Pleased to meet you, Levi, and thank you for meeting us.”
“The pleasure is all mine. Let me help you with your luggage. My car is parked just outside.”
Levi leads the way to a Range Rover parked in the short-term parking area. He unlocks the passenger doors so we can get in, and stows our bags in the back, before getting behind the wheel. Once underway, Levi engages us in conversation.
“My wife, Sophie, and I have been caretakers for Mr. Patrick’s villa for many years. We have everything ready for you, and Sophie has stocked the kitchen so you should have plenty of food and supplies for your stay.”
As we travel the airport access road toward town and the residential area, Nolan and I take in the scenery. It’s nearly sunset, and I’m in awe of the beauty surrounding us. The sky is like an easel of breathtaking hues, and I can literally smell the ocean. It has such a calming effect on me, and Nolan seems to be at peace as well. I take the hand he’s draping loosely over my shoulder and give it a squeeze. “Isn’t this amazing?”
He readily agrees. “Absolutely. I’ve never seen anything like it.”
Levi chuckles. “Just wait. You’re going to fall in love with Bonaire. I encourage you to explore, enjoy, and become a part of the island. Absorb our nature, our culture, and our cuisine. We have a saying here: ‘Once a visitor, always a friend.’ I hope this is the first of many trips for you to our island paradise.”
“It all sounds so wonderful. I’m afraid we don’t speak Dutch. Will we have any trouble communicating with locals?”
Levi assures us we won’t have any such challenges. “The official language of Bonaire is Dutch, but a local Creole language called Papamiento is spoken fluently by most long-time residents, and English and Spanish are also widely spoken. Many people in the tourism sector speak English fluently, and there is no need to exchange money as the US dollar is our official currency.”
A few minutes later, Levi pulls into the driveway beside an adorable villa painted in a bright turquoise color with crisp white trim. I couldn’t help but notice the small wooden sign at the corner as he turned onto the street. It readKaya Mississippi. He explained thatKayais the Dutch word for street, so our villa is on Mississippi Street!
As we exit the vehicle, Levi and Nolan tend to the bags, and I take in the sights and smells around me. The fragrant mix of bougainvillea and hibiscus is intoxicating in a good way. A short, plump, older woman with an apron tied around her waist comes bouncing out of the villa to greet us.
“Bon Bini! I’m Sophie.” She approaches me in greeting with a kiss on each cheek. “Mr. Sandy’s daughter! Here at last! So happy to meet you. Come in, come in!”
I spare a glance back at Nolan and see him grinning as Sophie hustles me inside. She gives me the grand tour; I assume Levi is doing the same with Nolan. The villa is absolutely beautiful inside as well. It’s decorated in a tropical vibe with lots of open space. After looking around the large living area and kitchen, Sophie shows me two spacious bedrooms of equal size with a bathroom between them. I immediately decide we’ll take the one with large sliding doors providing direct access to the covered lanai. We step out onto the lanai to find a beautiful outdoor living area, including a kitchen, bar area, pool, and hot tub. Although the sun is setting quickly, I can see a garden of flowers, greenery, and palm trees beyond the patio, as well as a hammock strung between two trees. I immediately have naughty thoughts of Nolan and me in that hammock. Filing away that image for later, I ask Sophie about a small building I see at the rear of the property.
“Oh, that’s the guest cottage. Sometimes Levi and I stay there if we’re asked to assist with cooking, cleaning, and maintenance when guests are staying in the main house.”
By the time we go back inside, Nolan and Levi are in the living room, having finished their “man tour.” Nolan seems happy with the accommodations, and enthusiastically relays to me that we have our own golf cart for transportation, and we’re only two blocks from the beach.
I arch a brow at Nolan, and he responds with, “Don’t worry, city girl. I know how to drive it.”
Sophie discreetly nudges her husband, then addresses me and Nolan. “If you don’t need anything else, we’ll be leaving you to get settled in. Our cell number is on the refrigerator and we’ll check in on you tomorrow.”
Once we’re alone, we look at each other and say simultaneously, “Paradise!”
The next morning as we linger over a breakfast of fresh fruit, toast, and coffee, we plan our day. I google sightseeing excursions and book an afternoon trolley tour so we can have a guide for our first outing. The pickup point is just a few blocks from the villa near the waterfront, so we head out around noon, planning to have some lunch somewhere before the tour starts.
Our charming trolley ride begins at the sea pier and travels through a residential area similar to where our villa is located. Just like ours, the homes are mostly concrete structures painted in bright tropical colors that sparkle in the sun. Cactus plants are plentiful since the climate here is dry and warm. Our guide explains the cactus fences I see around many of the villas, including ours. The yatu cactus grows straight up and close together like posts and serves as a natural barrier to protect yards against intruders. No one dares to climb over those prickly fences!
I ask the guide about the trees I see that remind me of life size bonsai trees. He relates that these are called divi divi trees, only found on the ABC islands. Since the wind almost always blows in from the east, they grow in the opposite direction, and lean toward the ground as if bending over. The guide also tells us the natives believe these trees have magical powers.
The first stop on the tour where we are able to get out and stretch our legs is at St. Bernard’s Catholic church, built in 1829. It’s still an active church and is the island’s largest place of worship. We tour the inside and are in awe of the beautiful stained-glass windows and murals. I tell myself that this church would be a wonderful and blessed place to get married.Where did that thought come from?
The trolley then takes us back toward the waterfront, where we can enjoy the sights and sounds of the beach. The water is dotted with boats of all shapes and sizes—sailboats, fishing boats, yachts, and canoes. At the end of the tour, our driver lets us off at Kaya Grandi, where the street market is located. Nolan is being a good sport and doesn’t complain too much about carrying all my shopping bags.
With little effort, we fall into the leisurely pace of island life. I’m so comfortable here and Nolan seems to be as well. As we float along the crystal water on a sunset boat cruise, I reflect on the journey I’ve taken with him these last months. There’s no denying to myself any longer the fact we are a couple. During the day we sightsee, shop, go to the beach, or lounge by the pool. At night, we enjoy each other. We’ve christened every room in the villa, as well as the guest house, and that hammock in the backyard! If this is what a normal and loving relationship feels like, then I’m all for it. Looking back, my fear and insecurity about being a couple seems silly. I’ve never felt so safe, so loved.
