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‘“There’s nothing to see.” How can you say that?’ she said, pointing to the fields of green lettuces stretching out before us, just off to the right of our path. ‘Can’t you see how lovely the fresh green colour of the leaves is in the pale sunlight? They’re like velvet. And all those young chocolate-coloured aubergines. Don’t they make you feel like they’re friends, of your own age? And beyond those, don’t the tall vegetables with slender leaves blowing in the gentle breeze make your spirits soar with them?’

‘You sound like a poet,’ I said, laughing.

‘Don’t mock me. People say poets are old-fashioned. I’m no poet, but if you mean I’m a poet simply because I have old-fashioned ideas, then I admit it.’ She smiled sweetly as she looked at me. ‘It’s true, you know, Nopporn, these things really are what make me happy. You must have noticed the chubby pink cheeks on those two little boys a moment ago and their lovely smiles and sparkling eyes. Ah, what else could be lovelier than that?’

‘I’ve just realized you’re a philosopher.’ When I said this, I did not think I was joking.

‘I’m saying no more, because you’re piling on the flattery,’ she said, and walked on in silence, without another word.

‘I was speaking in all honesty,’ I said hurriedly in my defence.

‘Then that’s all the more reason to say no more.’

I stifled a smile and we walked on in silence for a while before she turned to me and spoke.

‘I’m quite serious now. Wouldn’t you agree with me, how full of wonder all of those things I mentioned are?’

‘I wouldn’t for one moment contradict you. I agree with everything you said. The reason I asked was out of concern, because, generally, women aren’t interested in such matters. But you’re exceptional.’

‘First, I’m a poet, then a philosopher, and now I’m exceptional. You’re really persistent today, Nopporn. I’m just going to have to be firm.’

‘What, in expressing your opinion that I’m persistent?’

‘Yes, that too. But I meant that I’m not going to talk about such matters any more.’

In her calm bearing, which had something of a young child about it, I saw the incomparable charm and beauty of Mom Ratchawong Kirati. I could only admire her and praise her in my heart.

As we approached a village, we came to a junction where there was a shabby-looking coffee house. Just as we were walking past, a car drew up and two girls got out. Their faces were a deep-pink colour and they were unsteady on their feet. Two men got out after them. They had taken their jackets off because of the heat and were carrying them. One of them had half-closed eyes, while the other’s eyes were wide open and blazing. The two men put their arms around the girls, and together they staggered towards the coffee house, veering first to the left and then to the right before disappearing inside.

‘A young man like you must enjoy such a spectacle,’ Mom Ratchawong Kirati remarked when we had passed the junction. I knew that she did not mean it and was just being sarcastic, but I replied quite straightforwardly.

‘On the contrary, I really despise it.’

‘You see people enjoying themselves in a disgusting way everywhere, Nopporn, in every country. Why can’t they behave a bit better? It’s not even dark yet. And why do they have to act that way in the middle of the street? Couldn’t they wait until they were out of sight? Or perhaps they think they’re acting really smart.’

‘I don’t think most people would think it was being smart. Surely only a few people behave that way. I’ve heard that in Thailand, since they opened up beer halls all over the capital, this kind of thing goes on a lot. Is that true?

‘So I’ve heard. But I’ve never seen it, and I’ve no idea on what sort of scale it happens. I’d never have guessed that what we just saw goes on regularly.’

‘But the truth is, it seems to be fairly normal for coffee houses everywhere.’

‘Nopporn, you’re my Columbus! You’ve brought me to a new world.’

‘Are you sorry, Khunying, at being brought up against such sordidness?’

‘I like art. I’m as happy looking at millipedes and earthworms as I am looking at stars in the sky. No, I’m not at all sorry, Nopporn. I’m grateful to you, even. But when you remove art, witnessing such a scene disturbs me a little. But then, from an artistic point of view, it’s good to be disturbed.’

‘You’re an artist, too. Maybe both a painter and a writer,’ I cried in astonishment, genuine astonishment.

‘Nopporn, please be careful with your words. Remember that in the space of less than half an hour, you’ve given me four different jobs already!’

‘I think I’d be much cleverer, amazingly clever in fact, if I were to be close to you for a year.’ I did not listen to her protests, so sure was I that I had spoken the truth.

She looked sharply at me out of the corner of her eye, as ifto see if there were any other meaning in those words. ‘Your persistence is sweet,’ she said with a smile. ‘So all you want is one year, then?’

‘I meant at least one year,’ I said quickly. ‘But if I had the choice, there would be no limit.’

Mom Ratchawong Kirati laughed. But her laugh lacked something of its usual sparkle. ‘But I’m only here for eight weeks and it’s already the third week.’